4/3 – 4/5
A quick 2.5 hours away from my mother’s house on the Yakam Reservation is Smith Rock. Feeling bad for missing her birthday (St. Patrick’s Day), I carved time out to visit on Easter Sunday. After enjoying some freshly caught Yakama Salmon, I bopped down to Smith Rock with Aloo (my husky), to meet up with Cecil, a friend and fellow guide from Climbers of Color. Unfortunately, the stable weather window had devolved into a steadily approaching storm which brought equally favorable overcast and snow on the final morning. Upon arrival on 4/3 around 1500, I was keen to jump right into the climbing and now waste any time. Our first route in mind, Pack Animal 2P 5.8R, really gave me a run for my money. Between a large swing potential with a tiny nut for protection, the traverse into the first anchor made for an exciting beginning to the 2024 rock season! Pitch 2 looked not too bad although, in classic fashion, it is always steeper than it looks. Navigating two bulges with okay-feet, the wonky tuff of Smith proved engaging protection not readily good. Through some effort and grunting, both Cecil and I made our way up and were excited to get back down. Retreating to my favorite BLM spot above the Deschute River, we feasted after our spicey 2P adventure on day one; surely, it was going to be an exciting trip.
Tongue out for Chouirnard Crack – it was awesome albeit short lived
Over the next few days, Cecil and I absolutely quested up a few more trad multipitch routes in preparation for our Rock Guide courses this year. Mine is at the end of May at Smith Rock, Cecil’s in Leavenworth at the end of the summer. Although we managed through the routes, I can’t say I felt as good as I had hoped on routes only up to 5.8. Sky Chimney 3P 5.7 proved to also be more than we anticipated. Cecil ended up lowering off just before the pedastal, while I took over and linked P2 & P3; it made for some wicked rope drag up high around the #4 bulge. A key purple totem did however, alleviate much stress of quite the whipper, I will have to remember this placement. Other notable routes we did were Cinnamon Slab with the Chouinard Start – fantastic link up! Then Super Slab in deteriorating conditions to finish up the two days of climbing. Although it had not been as long as we had hoped or planned for, Smith Rock provides readily accessible climbing in a superb setting; albeit, old school in the rating I would say.
Glad to have Cecil’s levity!
Super Slab topout!
Yakama Alpinism 